To experience a liminal world, that in-between space between land and sea, take a walk during low tide at Narara, one of two access points to Gujarat’s Marine National Park. Walking around a living reef at low tide allows you to get a close look at a unique world that only becomes visible for a few hours at a time.
On a not-too-hot winter’s afternoon in 2022, I set off for Narara from Jamnagar with Kunal Joshi, a naturalist and conservationist who knows the area like the flamingos know the flats. A little over 90 minutes and 60-odd kilometres later, we were at the visitor’s centre at Narara. Kunal bought entry tickets and booked the mandatory guide that all visitors must be accompanied by. While walking on the path built through the mangroves, Kunal explained that Marine National Park has 42 islands, but most of the marine park is off-limits to visitors. Only Poshitra and Narara are open to the public. Narara is closer to reach from Jamnagar and a lot less rocky than Poshitra. Its coral reefs are easier to access and walk around during low tide and thus Narara offers a more immersive walk.
As we walked down the jetty’s ramp and ambled towards the shoreline, I was struck by the sheer expanse of the vista shimmering before me. At Narara, the sea recedes a few kilometres at low tide and creates a unique experience — an immense intertidal zone with reefs interspersed with sand beds. You can pick your way through coral beds and see several species close-up.
The juxtaposition of towering manmade oil refineries and their jetties and terminals blithely twinkling in the distance, and the wildlife in the intertidal zone make Narara seem surreal. It feels almost like an outpost planet from a Star Wars movie.
Narara’s unique natural experience is truly “otherworldly”. As we started walking towards the horizon, the damp sand gave way to trickles of the receding tide. Soon enough, we were wading through ankle-deep water, and this is where the fun began. The floor, which is actually the seabed, is thickly carpeted with seagrass and seaweed, and we squelched our way through.
Cover photo: The combination of crab and coral is one that is reassuringly common to spot on your walk at Narara, though this image of colourful corals was taken while diving with special permission from the authorities.
About a third of the way in, Kunal started lifting large rocks to peer at their undersides. I’ve been around naturalists enough to know that something special was about to unfold. And I wasn’t disappointed. Every rock seemed to yield a crab of a different form and hue. But the one that best caught my attention was the wolf crab. Small, caramel-coloured, and covered in soft bristles, this palm-sized wonder deserved to be called “shapeshifter” because its natural form was nearly impossible to discern.
We saw pufferfish aplenty, and our accompanying government guide even “caught” (code for corralled, something we immediately put a stop to) an octopus for us. Another splendid sighting was the crab plover — a striking bird with black-and-white plumage and a thick black bill. We saw adults darting around the rocks, often with a juvenile in tow. A winter visitor from Arabian waters, the promise of spotting these eye-catching beauties had drawn renowned ornithologist Dr Salim Ali to these shores twice. I feel fortunate to have seen around twenty during my first visit and look forward to seeing more when I go next.
Explore
Marine National Park was established in the Gulf of Kutch in 1980. Narara is one of the 42 islands in the park and, along with Poshitra, one of only two access points for visitors. There is a staggering variety of life here — over 70 species of sponges, 50+ corals, and over 90 bird species. Additionally, there are many species of crabs, prawns, octopuses, starfish, sea cucumbers, and sea urchins.
The deeper waters (not accessible to visitors) are said to harbour porpoises, multiple species of dolphins, whale sharks, sei and blue whales, and even dugongs.
Wildlife
Corals: The park is known for its coral reefs, but don’t go in expecting an experience out of the Great Barrier Reef. These reefs don’t have as vast a range of coral species. You’re walking on the sand in between the coral bed area where coral growth is smaller and flatter. Decades of the impact of oil refineries nearby means that the coral growth is often bleached (affected by stressors like pollution, changes in temperature or light). However, you can see live corals as you walk further into the water.
Fish: In ankle- to shin-deep water you won’t find schools of fish. However, there are a surprisingly large number of pufferfish darting around at speeds that belie their rotund image.
Crustaceans & Molluscs: Wolf crab, Neptune crab, octopus, oysters, clams — while this may seem like a fishmonger’s list, these are some of the creatures you’ll spot at Narara.
Birds: As one would expect from a flat area with lots of water, the area abounds in waders. Herons (grey and pond), egrets, bar-tailed godwits, black-tailed godwits, painted and black-necked storks, and sandpipers are easily spotted as is the crab plover.
Mammals: Visitors will not encounter any mammals though dolphins and whales etc. inhabit the Gulf of Kutch, and jackals live deep in the mangroves.
Flora: The path leading to the shore is lined with tall mangroves on either side while the walk to and through the coral is lined with luxuriant seagrass and seaweed beds.
Getting There
Narara is about 60 km/1.5 hr drive from Jamnagar, the nearest railhead and airport. Rajkot, a few hours further south, offers better national connectivity.
Seasons
The best time to visit Narara for an intertidal walk is between November and February when the birds are numerous and the weather agreeable. Walking around for hours in the open in the summer months (March to May) is best avoided. The park is closed from May 16 – October 15.
Timings & Fees
Timings: Entry is allowed 3 hours after high tide, so timings change every day. Ask your hotel to help book a naturalist beforehand and get the best times for the day you want to visit.
Fees: Entry Rs 50 per person; Rs 200 camera; Rs 300 government guide.
Stay
Hotel President is a comfortable, clean place with free Wi-Fi and a restaurant. (www.hotelpresident.in/)
Hotel Fortune Palace offers a more luxurious option (www.hotelfortunepalace.in/)
Tips
• Check tide timings for the best experience.
• You will wade through the water, so wear shorts and sandals.
• For the walk which lasts 2-3 hours, wear a cap and carry water and snacks.
• Be careful when you step, especially around corals.
• Engage with your guide and ask questions.
• Tell your guide you don’t “need” to see an octopus or pufferfish. The joy of an accidental sighting is far greater than a contrived one. And decline offers to pick up, handle, or touch wild creatures.
About the contributors
Manan Dhuldhoya
