Sangti Valley: Loving it to Death

Some illusions are better left undisturbed — lest the harshness of reality lead to heartbreak. This was precisely my experience during a visit to Sangti Valley, Arunachal Pradesh, in June 2025. I had first heard of this “magical” valley nearly 30 years ago, as a place where some black-necked cranes are known to winter. While researching my book Threatened Birds of India (2012), which includes a chapter on the black-necked crane, I gathered more information. But my resolve to visit the valley only deepened during the writing of another book on the species with Pankaj Chandan, who had visited Sangti multiple times to study these birds. Captivating images of these elegant cranes, foraging peacefully in waterlogged harvested paddy fields amidst human presence and surrounded by dark, forested hills, had painted a dreamlike vision in my mind.

Another compelling reason to visit was to see the long-billed plover, known to nest near the Sangti River. Having never seen this elusive bird, my longing to visit the valley intensified over time. That long-awaited opportunity finally came in June 2025, when I travelled with Abidur Rahman, an outstanding bird guide from Assam. We travelled from Lama Camp in the Eaglenest Sanctuary in Arunachal Pradesh , to Sangti Valley in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh via Dirang, arriving at 4 pm. We quickly dropped our bags at Namthung Homestay and set out eagerly toward Sangti, envisioning traditional farmlands, vibrant local communities, and abundant birdlife. Though it was not the crane season, our excitement was palpable.

But we were in for a rude awakening. Instead of the pastoral charm featured in tourism brochures, we were met with a jarring scene — unsightly buildings cluttering the valley, many still under construction. All in the name of tourism. Alarmingly, some of these new structures stood precisely where the black-necked cranes have historically foraged during winter.

Is this how tourism is meant to develop? Most of the land is indeed under community ownership, which limits external control over land-use changes. Yet, some form of foresight by the government or community leaders could have preserved the key wintering habitat of the cranes. It was a textbook case of destroying the goose that lays the golden eggs.

Geographically, Sangti is a sub-valley of Dirang. The Sangti River merges with the Dirang Chu near Dirang Dzong. The Monpa people who inhabit the valley are primarily followers of Mahayana Buddhism and also retain elements of ancient animist beliefs. Within their cultural context, the arrival of the black-necked cranes is considered auspicious.

Visitors are drawn to Sangti Valley for its natural beauty, riverbank camping, and pleasant summer climate. Though winters are harsh, they have their own unique appeal — especially the presence of the majestic black-necked cranes, who have been regular visitors to the valley since at least the early 1950s. Agriculture remains a key source of livelihood for the villagers, with paddy and maize as primary crops. The cranes usually arrive by late November or early December and stay until early February. During their stay, they feed on fallen grain in harvested fields and supplement their diet with insects.

On March 5, 2025, a severely injured black-necked crane was discovered in Chug Valley, West Kameng district, by Dr Anurag Vishwakarma, accompanied by Wildlife Institute of India researcher Omar Ahmed and two local birdwatchers, Rinchin Nima and Rinchin Dorjee. The crane, likely mauled by stray, free-ranging dogs, was rescued and is currently under the care of experienced veterinarian Dr Darge Tsering. Unfortunately, its injuries were so serious that the bird will never fly again.

Dr Anurag recalls, “The rescue effort generated tremendous interest within the local community. Youngsters and children not only assisted in constructing an enclosure for the crane but also expressed deep concern for its well-being and offered prayers for its recovery. Recognising this as a key opportunity for conservation education, our team conducted awareness sessions on the ecological significance of black-necked cranes, the importance of habitat conservation, and the threats posed by unregulated infrastructure development, stray dogs, and human-wildlife conflict.”

Despite the community’s support and the crane’s recovery, from an ecological perspective, the reality remains grim, and the bird is lost. Unable to fly, mate, or breed, it will never again live a normal life in the wild. This episode brings us back to a central issue in conservation — habitat protection. No amount of individual rescues can ensure the species’ survival if their natural habitats continue to be degraded.

Currently, the black-necked crane is known to winter in three major valleys of Arunachal Pradesh’s eastern Himalaya — Zemithang, Sangti, and Chug. Historically, the species was also sighted in the Apatani Valley in central Arunachal’s Subansiri region. However, it is believed that hunting has destroyed the population there. There have also been occasional sightings of this crane from Namdapha Tiger Reserve — India’s easternmost range.

In addition to Sangti Valley, reports have come from the Mechuka region in Shi Yomi District (in Arunachal), about 28 km (as the crow flies) from the China border and south of the Tibetan Plateau. Mechuka features expansive grasslands, high-altitude marshes, and cultivated fields — ideal habitats for the cranes. Shergaon, another potential site about 30 km from Sangti and home to the predominantly Buddhist Sherdukpen tribe, has seen a drastic decline in crane visits — only two sightings in the past five years. In February 2025, a crane was sighted in Morshing village. 

The government is now promoting Mechuka as an emerging destination for adventure tourism, but such development brings its own set of ecological challenges. Commercial aviation is set to begin here shortly, which could severely disturb the sensitive cranes. These birds are known to be highly susceptible to habitat alterations, often resulting in stress and behavioural disruption. Furthermore, although the Memba tribe is predominantly Buddhist and reveres the crane, isolated hunting incidents still occur, especially by members of non-Buddhist communities.

Compounding the problem are proposed hydroelectric dams on rivers flowing through both the Mechuka and Tawang regions. These projects, if implemented, could significantly alter downstream landscapes, directly impacting crane foraging grounds and wintering areas. In fact, the Monpa community of Tawang has long resisted dam construction on the Nyamjang Chu (river), which threatens to submerge a critical three-kilometre stretch where the cranes traditionally winter.

Taking stock of all these existing and emerging threats, the future of the black-necked crane in Arunachal Pradesh appears increasingly uncertain. The unchecked spread of tourism infrastructure in places like Sangti Valley, far from preserving what makes them special, risks destroying the very serenity and natural beauty that draws visitors in the first place. It would be a classic case of “loving the valley to death”.