The Guide: Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park

Far from Goa’s coastline, the Western Ghats stretch along the state’s eastern edge. The entire section of this ancient mountain range that is within Goa is a protected area, with contiguous sanctuaries extending from north to south.

What we know today as the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park (BMWLSNP) is Goa’s oldest protected area, declared a game sanctuary in 1967. Since then, it has been through many iterations. At 240 sq km, it is also the largest of Goa’s protected forest areas and contains the 107-sq-km Mollem National Park within its boundaries.

At the foothills of the Western Ghats, the wilderness here is characterised by varying habitats. Densely forested moist deciduous and semi-evergreen areas gradually give way to patches of evergreen vegetation and a handful of open laterite plateaus without tree cover.

Mollem is Goa’s only national park — a rich haven of endemic plant and animal life that, unfortunately, is plagued by multiple threats in the name of infrastructure development. 

EXPLORE

Visitors can access the sanctuary and national park from different entry points. The main gate in the town of Mollem provides entry to the national park, where there are hiking trails as well as driving paths for self-driven vehicles. The park is at its most vibrant in the monsoon when moss and fungi hang off the trees, streams are in full spate, and paths are lined with purple flowers of wild turmeric.

There are several popular tourist attractions within the forest, drawing large numbers of vehicles and visitors. Among these is the popular Dudhsagar Falls, Goa’s largest waterfall (306 m).

Visitors can also visit the northern part of the sanctuary in the Tambdi Surla area. Here, the Tambdi Surla Mahadev temple draws hordes of visitors every weekend. A nearby hiking trail in the forest follows the course of the Ragada River, a tributary of the Mhadei River, and leads ultimately to the Tambdi waterfall. There are outcrops of smooth black basalt overlooking the river. The vegetation consists of patches of cane amidst a dense cover of moist-deciduous trees.

SEASONS

The landscape transforms into lush green when the monsoon hits the Western Ghats (June to late September). Waterfalls are in full spate, and seasonal streams spring to life. This is the best time to visit the wilderness of BMWLSNP. Seasonal flora like orchids, fungi, and many flowering plants come into view. For birdlife, the winter season, from November to February, is best.

FLORA & FAUNA

There are over 700 species of plants and 40 species of fungi in this protected area. The vegetation comprises terminalia and crocodile bark trees, strangler figs and bamboo groves. In the monsoon, fungi in different shapes and colours overtake the forest. You’ll hear names like dead man’s fingers, zombie fungus and flowers in the grave. When rain hits the laterite plateau, wild grass and tiny flowers bloom, including murdannia and eriocaulon.

Large mammals like gaur, sambar, barking deer, sloth bear and wild boars live in these forests. Tiger sightings have also been reported. There are civets and slender loris in the trees and over 200 species of birds, including the flame-throated bulbul (state bird of Goa), serpent eagles, golden orioles, and grey hornbills. In the monsoon, reptiles and amphibians come out in large numbers. The 50+ species of reptiles include endemic species like Beddom’s olive keelback, plus others like the common krait, spectacled cobra, saw-scaled vipers, and hump-nosed pit vipers. 

CONSERVATION CHALLENGES

This vital ecosystem faces a threat from three large projects.

• The planned doubling of the existing railway line between Castlerock and Vasco, which runs through the protected area.
• A four-lane national highway expansion of NH4A, passing through Mollem National Park.
• The Tamnar power project which involves laying a 400 KV electricity transmission line.

For these projects to be implemented, 170 hectares of forest within the protected area (and 250 hectares in total) must be cleared. During the pandemic, these projects were given virtual clearance in 2020. Since then, a citizen-led movement called “Save Mollem” has been at the forefront of an ongoing battle to save BMWLSNP. The fight continues to prevent an irreparable loss to Goa’s fragile wilderness.

COSTS & TIMINGS

Entry tickets: Rs 100/person and Rs 100/vehicle. There are several access points to the protected area, but tickets are only available at two gates: Mollem main office and Collem (for Dudhsagar waterfalls). There are no safari vehicles available. You have to drive in a private car or hire a tourist vehicle.

Open: 7 am to 5.30 pm.

Hikes: Apart from driving routes, there are numerous walking trails within the sanctuary and national park. Outfits like Mrugaya Expeditions can organise customised wildlife trips and hikes in the area.

GETTING THERE

By Air: The nearest airport is at Dabolim, a 1 hr/54 km drive away.

By Rail: The nearest railway station is at Collem, 6 km away.

There is no public transport to the sanctuary. Self-driven cars/bikes or hired taxis are the best way to explore the area.