The Guide: Desert National Park

A chilly December breeze catches me off guard. I clutch my kulhad of piping-hot chai in the hope of temporary respite from the cold, to no avail. Who would have thought that one has to wear layers of clothes in a desert? Weren’t deserts all about scorching heat? Yet, here I was in the Great Indian Desert at 6.30 am in 10-degree Celsius weather. I gulped the last of my tea just as my guide, Musa Khan, said, “Chale?” (Let’s go?). And we took off in the darkness.

As someone fond of exploring lush green forest ecosystems, I wasn’t sure what a desert had to offer. I imagined a hostile landscape where very little thrives. A vast expanse of sand and nothingness. But what I witnessed in the five days of my stay at Sam Dunes felt like something out of a storybook — so surreal and fascinating.

Ten minutes into our safari, the swift, dark shadow of a laggar falcon (Falco jugger) swooped down close to us. The bird settled on a fence nearby. Suddenly, we heard a small screech behind us, and another laggar flew from a tree close by. The pair sailed off effortlessly as if looking out for a quick breakfast.

We’d barely driven another two minutes when we saw something run about 10 m from us. It was a desert fox (Vulpes vulpes pusilla), so well camouflaged under the dense bushes of a kair tree (Capparis decidua) that none of us saw it till it moved. Before disappearing into a thicket, it looked back one final time and tilted its head almost as if it were wondering what we were doing there.

Over the next two hours, we saw 17-odd bird species, ranging from the tiny bimaculated lark (Melanocorypha bimaculata) to the mighty steppe eagle (Aquila nipalensis). Another interesting sighting was a black-shouldered kite (Elanus caeruleus) feeding on an Indian desert jird (Meriones hurrianae) it had caught while another kite hovered near their burrows, hoping to get lucky too.

On the way back to the hotel, I marvelled at how much I’d seen in under four hours. What was I going to see in the next four days? 

EXPLORE

Desert National Park (DNP) was created in the early 1980s to protect the unique flora and fauna of the Thar Desert. While the Thar Desert occupies around 9 per cent of India’s geographical area and covers more than 208,000 sq km, DNP is only around 3,162 sq km of it. DNP is spread over two districts, with 1,900 sq km in Jaisalmer and 1,262 sq km in Barmer, with undulating sand dunes making up most of the park’s topography.

Most of the desert is dry, open grassland interspersed with trees and thorny bushes, making it a truly unique ecosystem with a plethora of wildlife. This is the only place in Rajasthan where the state bird (the great Indian bustard, Ardeotis nigriceps or godawan), state animal (chinkara or Gazella bennettii), state tree (Prosopis cineraria or khejri), and state flower (Tecomella undulata or rohida) are all found naturally.

Another interesting fact about this landscape is that it has fossil evidence dating back to the Jurassic Period (180 million years ago). Fossilised remains of ancient creatures can be seen at the Wood Fossil Park at Akal, 17 km from Jaisalmer.

WILDLIFE

At first glance, DNP’s harsh, rugged landscape seems hostile, with very few lifeforms. But close inspection reveals a different picture. Over centuries, different species have evolved and adapted to living in these dunes.

Mammals: Desert and Indian fox, small Indian mongoose, desert cat, chinkara, desert jird, nilgai, and more.

Birds: Several species of vultures, raptors, sandgrouse, larks, and more, including the critically endangered great Indian bustard.

Reptiles: Saw-scaled viper, toad-headed agama, spiny-tailed lizard, desert monitor lizard, and more.

Insects: Various dung beetle species, dune crickets etc.

SEASON

The park is open throughout the year, and each season has its own charm.

March to June: Extreme and sometimes unbearable heat with sandstorms (or the loo) is very common in this season.

July to September: With the onset of the monsoon, the weather cools down and some parts turn a vibrant green.

October to February: Visitors find this the best time weather-wise, and wildlife sightings are good. It gets slightly cold in December-January. 

GETTING THERE

By Air: The closest airport is Jaisalmer. Check whether the airport is operational before booking tickets as this is a military airport. Sam Dunes is approximately an hour’s drive from the airport. Finding local transport from the airport is difficult, so ask your hotel/homestay owner to arrange pick-up and drop.

By Rail: The nearest railhead is at Jaisalmer, about 42 km away. Pre-book your pick-up vehicle to pick you up here, or opt for local transport.

By Road: Jaisalmer (41 km/1 hr) is the closest city. Jodhpur (320 km/5.5 hr away) is a major big city with good connectivity.

STAY

There are many accommodation options in and around Jaisalmer and Sam Dunes to suit all budgets. Some even have pools! Only a handful of the traditional tent hotels and luxurious fortress resorts built for tourists offer wildlife safaris.

Musa’s Desert Nest is one of few hotels that primarily focuses on wildlife and caters to the needs of naturalists and wildlife photographers. (musasdesertnest.com/ or contact Musa Khan at +919929663413 for details and customised tours)

SAFARI

Unlike most national parks and tiger reserves, safaris are conducted during three different time slots — morning, evening, and night. An entire jeep (six-seater) costs about Rs 5,000 per day. Obtaining safari permits from the forest department is not difficult. One of the best safari trails is from Sudasari checkpost.

Depending on your chosen safari time, expect to spot different species. Morning safaris are a great time to spot raptors, falcons, and small birds. Evening and night safaris are great for mammals like desert foxes, desert cats, and hedgehogs. 

TIPS

● Pack light, dull-coloured clothes. If travelling in winter, bring thermals, layers, and/or a jacket as it gets chilly. If travelling in summer, pack loose, light cottons. Also bring a cap, scarf, bandanas, sunscreen, sunglasses, and/or anything to shield you from the sun, and dust.

● Bring snacks, first-aid, and personal medicines, as not much is available locally.

● Pack at least two water bottles and some rehydration salts; it is easy to get dehydrated in the desert.

● On evening/night safaris, a good torch comes in handy.

● Binoculars and cameras should be packed well to protect from sand/dust.