The Guide: Kaas Plateau of Maharashtra

Kaas Pathar, or the Kaas Plateau, is often regarded as Maharashtra state’s “Valley of Flowers”. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site acclaimed for its biodiversity, unique ecological significance, and flora. Although some of the flora here is similar to that found in the rest of the Western Ghats, it is the sheer concentration, brilliance, and abundance of the flowering vegetation on a flat, walkable plateau that surpasses any other place in the Western Ghats. The highlight of the flowering on Kaas occurs at the end of the monsoon season and soon after (August to October).

The name Kaas is derived from the Kaasa tree, botanically known as Elaeocarpus glandulosus, which was probably once abundant in the area. The Kaas Plateau is a laterite tableland primarily composed of basalt rock with only a very thin layer of nutrient-poor soil on top. The thin topsoil and the porous nature of laterite ensure that rainwater drains and seeps into the water table, feeding the surrounding rivers and streams. The plateau is 1,000 hectares in size and at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level. It is easily accessible by a vehicle, and the road leading to the entry point is well-maintained. Regular buses also ply from Satara to Kaas. This plateau is also a biodiversity hotspot, with much of its flora and fauna endangered due to human habitation and activity. However, commendable efforts have been made by local authorities and the Kaas Management Committee to preserve and provide much-needed protection to the plateau and its flora, while also benefiting both visitors and locals.

EXPLORE

At first glance, the plateau looks like a farm or ranch with fence posts and netting running all around. This is useful for protecting the fragile plants and wildflowers from being trampled by tourists. There are four established walking trails and entry points/gates that lead to different areas of the plateau. Plan to visit all four, as each offers a very different vista, flowering scene, and experience. However, please stay on the marked trails, where local volunteers can assist and direct you.

Through the organised effort of local stakeholders, including the Kaas Management Committee, the City Council of Satara, the Forest Department, local village communities, and other NGOs, Kaas is a tourist-friendly area that is also well-preserved. A wealth of information on Kaas is available at the main office. Posters and boards with pictures and details about the plateau are posted. You can purchase some pamphlets and books if you like. Experts and guides can be hired for a small fee. Many of these guides are retired forest officials who have a wealth of knowledge and experience about the flora and fauna of the plateau. They will make your walk an informative and enjoyable adventure. Since many of the unique and endangered flowers and plants of Kaas are really tiny, you can easily miss them when walking on your own. Take a guide, it’s worth it.

The Kaas management has involved local villagers and tribal folk in running this tourism initiative. They have given them a sense of ownership and pride by onboarding them as volunteers, assistants, and caretakers. You’ll find them at strategic points all over the plateau, making sure visitors do not leave the main trails or venture the wrong way. Some walk the trails and pick up trash that ill-informed visitors discard. Still others bring home-cooked food and local produce to sell to visitors. There is a distinct absence of the sale of any bottled water or packaged beverages and food on the plateau.

LOOK OUT FOR:

1) Look out for the unending sea of flowers swaying gently in the breeze. You will see this first as the shuttle bus brings you to the entrance. Pause along the trails at strategic vantage points and take in the mesmerising beauty of blossoms dancing, as the wind plays the role of conductor, directing this magical sea of flowers. The colours vary, depending on which species are in bloom, adding to the captivating performance.

2) Kumudini lake/pond: This small lake/pond is about 2-3 kilometres from the main office/entry point. A well-defined, well-marked dirt road called Raj Marg leads to it. There is fencing and netting on either side of the road, but these do not obstruct your view. The pond is not very large; its surface is covered with kumudini leaves and white flowers rising above the water. Though it may at first look like it, kumudini (Nymphoides indicum) is not a lotus or water lily. It is a fast-growing water plant. Its flower has 5-6 white, fluffy petals with a light-yellow centre and delicate fragrance. The roots lie buried in the mud through the summer and sprout when the monsoon soaks the parched lakebed.

3) Hostage taking lantern flowers: Ceropagia bulbosa are known locally as kandil pushpa, because they resemble an oil lantern. There are 25 species of Ceropagia in the Sahyadris, but kandil pushpa is rare and endangered. If you have a guide with you, ask him to show you this flower, as it is not easy to locate. The flower entraps and tricks insects into fertilising it. Once the insect enters the flower, it is held prisoner and only released after pollination. Ceropagia is not insectivorous. It captures insects, but does not consume them; instead, it merely holds them hostage to assist in pollination. At one time, the bulb of the plant was a delicacy consumed by tribals and local villagers, but this has now been discouraged.

4) Sita’s tears (Utricularia purpurascens) is known locally in Marathi as Seetechi aasawe. These flowers are tiny (7-12 mm) but can cover large tracts of the plateau with their delicate blue flowers that resemble teardrops. Legend has it that while Ravana, after abducting Sita, flew over Kaas, some of her tears fell on this flower’s petals, leaving a permanent mark. This plant is 6-10 cm tall and is a voracious insectivore that traps and digests small insects. The plants have “bladders” that capture prey by suction, which is activated when prey touches the cilia (hair). This adaptation is nature’s way of making up for the lack of nutrients in the soil. There are around 227 known species of Utricularia globally, of which six are found on Kaas, and all are insectivorous. Don’t worry, you are too big a prey for it.

 

5) Murdannia flowers The most widespread flowers of this genus on Kaas are abolima or Murdannia lanuginosa, which have tiny, yellowish-orange flowers that tend to bloom in the morning and close by around noon. Another Murdannia species takes over the baton and blooms from noon to late afternoon. Then, you have yet another species called Nilima (Murdannia simplex) that blooms from late afternoon to sunset.

6) Tropical sundew (Drosera burmanni). This plant is an insectivore with small, flat, rosette-forming leaves covered in the carnivorous tentacles. They attract, trap, and devour flying and crawling insects. The trapping mechanism is the tiny, sticky-sweet tentacles on the leaves, on which prey crawls or lands — then it’s dinner time. The small size and the fact that it grows very low down on the ground make it very difficult to spot. It is worth having a magnifying glass on hand to observe them properly.

GETTING THERE

By air: Pune is the nearest airport 140 km from Kaas.

By road: Kaas is an easy 25 km drive from Satara. From Pune city, Kaas is a three-hour drive/140 km drive via the Mumbai-Satara highway.

By rail: The nearest railhead is also Satara, from where it’s a 45-60-minute drive to Kaas. State transport buses or taxis are readily available outside the station.

Internal transport: No vehicles are allowed onto the plateau. However, just before you reach the top of the hill, there is a spacious parking lot where visitors can park (free). A free minibus shuttle service runs every few minutes, transporting visitors to and from the parking lot to the main entrance and/or one of the four trailheads/entry points.

WHEN TO GO

Kaas is open all year round and has something to offer everyone, from the hardcore botanical enthusiast to the casual visitor who wants to take a leisurely walk and appreciate the beauty of nature. However, the best time to visit is from early August till mid-October, depending on when the monsoon finally ends, when the entire plateau is a riot of colours. The monsoon sea of blossoms changes almost every 7-10 days as one species fades and dies, and another takes its place, keeping the show going. One visit is never sufficient, and you’ll want to return several times to catch Mother Nature’s magic show.