Vansda National Park (VNP) in Gujarat straddles the districts of Dang and Navsari in the northernmost part of the Western Ghats. This park is almost unknown outside its immediate vicinity and is deserted much of the year, with fewer footfalls than almost any similar park in the country. Just inside the entrance, on Vansda-Waghai Road, is a tiny structure where simple entry formalities are done. A tiny tea shop nearby dishes up hot masala tea, a perfect start to a safari on a cold morning.
An open patch in front of the entrance quickly gives way to dense forest. It is almost gloomy and eerily silent, except for the low rumble of the slow-moving vehicle and the soft crunching of tyres treading dry leaves. An occasional rustle in the trees, a fleeting movement in the undergrowth or a short squeak are all quickly smothered by the stillness.
Cover photo: Nearly 80 per cent of Dang district in southeast Gujarat, spread over an estimated area of 1,764 sq km, is covered in forests, fed by a network of rivers. It is among the greenest districts in Gujarat. Photo: Dhritiman Mukherjee
Our vehicle slowly traverses undulating paths veiled by the shadow of tall trees and pushes into the heart of the park. The sky lightens, and gradually, everything comes into focus. Dappled patterns fall on the leaf-covered forest floor, and the jungle is alive with the bird song. In much of the park, the canopy is thick enough that it is never very bright. As the sun moves higher, some of the park’s shadows disappear, showcasing its precious treasures.
EXPLORE
Spread over 24 sq km, this was once the hunting grounds of the Maharaja of Vansda, who abolished tree felling here in 1952. Thanks to his decree, the park is believed to have scores of 100-year-old trees. The area was handed over to the Gujarat government and declared a protected area in 1979. A deer breeding facility on the fringe forms part of the park, created to augment the population in the park. Travellers cannot visit the facility but may see deer through the fence.
VNP’s topography is mostly undulating, interspersed with flatlands with the river Ambika running through. Located at the foothills of the Western Ghats, the park comprises tropical moist deciduous forests with foliage so dense in places that even when the sun is overhead, sunlight does not penetrate through. The park’s tall trees are sometimes over 120 ft high. Nearly 450 plant species have been identified here till now. Common trees are teak (Tectona grandis), sadad/crocodile bark tree (Terminalia elliptica), palash/flame of the forest (Butea monosperma), shisham/rosewood (Dalbergia sissoo/latifolia) and several varieties of bamboo. An unusual feature of the park is an abundance of thick vines; some form a cluster several feet in diameter at the base. They wind their way across surrounding trees, making weird shapes, and creating eerie canopies. There are also several kinds of orchids, ferns, and fungi (including bracket fungi). A handful of waterbodies dot the park and are frequented by animals and birds. A few watchtowers, rising to the forest canopy, are scattered across the park and offer vantage points for spotting birds and animals.
WILDLIFE
The park does have leopard, spotted deer, chausingha (four-horned antelope), wild boar, hyena, jackal, rufous-naped hare, palm civet, flying squirrel, langur, macaque, rusty spotted cat, and mongoose — but they are difficult to spot in this dense jungle. The park also contains about 30 species of snakes, including cobra, krait, and Russell’s viper, over 60 species of butterflies, several species of insects and snails, and various frogs and toads. More fascinatingly, it is home to over 120 species of spiders, including the giant wood spider (with humungous, easy-to-spot webs) and four kinds of tarantulas.
But much of VNP’s animal diversity remains hidden and is overshadowed by the rich variety of its avian inhabitants. About 300 bird species can be spotted here, including the endangered forest owlet, thought to be extinct for 113 years until rediscovered in 1997 in Toranmal forests in nearby areas in Maharashtra.
Bird species you can spot: racket-tailed drongo, peafowl, paradise flycatcher, babblers, bee-eaters, barbets, kingfishers (common and pied), flowerpeckers, Indian roller, yellow-breasted sparrow, parakeets, woodpeckers (rufous, white-naped, black-rumped/flameback), coucal, bulbuls, and many more.
Birds that are less easy to spot: owls (barn, brown hawk, Indian scops, oriental scops, rock eagle, dusky eagle), grey hornbill, raptors, and Malabar trogon.
SEASONS
Winter (Dec-Feb) is dry and cold; morning temperatures drop to 5 degrees C while day temperatures hover around 24 degrees C.
Summer months from mid-March to June are humid and very hot, with daytime temperatures ranging from 28-36 degrees C. The forest becomes very dry, but animal sighting becomes easier.
February and March are when several species of local trees (silk cotton, palash, mahua and Indian coral tree) bloom, attracting birds, so birdwatching is rewarding.
The park is closed in the monsoon (mid-June to early October). Post-monsoon, it is lush, but animal sightings can be difficult because of the dense greenery.
SAFARIS
Open: October 16 to June 14 (dates can change depending on the monsoon).
Timings: Open 7 am to 5 pm; no specific safari timings, but permits are issued for three hours.
Permits: Obtain permits at the entrance ticket counter; Rs 500 per vehicle/Rs 100 per camera. The park has only one entry/exit point on the Vansda-Waghai road. Villagers use two other exits, but these are not for visitors. There are no safari zones.
Safari vehicle: Private vehicles (only four-wheelers) are allowed, but guides are not easy to find. Soar Excursions (www.soarexcursions.com/) can custom design safaris based on individual interests, with vehicle, guide, and birdwatching sessions. Visitors can drive on any paths, and get off their vehicles and wander around (especially around watchtowers).
Tip: It is safer and more sensible to have a knowledgeable guide when inside the park.
GETTING THERE
By Air: Nearest airport is at Surat (105 km/2.5 hours away).
By Train: Gujarat’s only narrow gauge train runs from Waghai (Dang) to Billimora (Navsari). Soon after leaving Waghai, it passes through VNP and the adjoining thickly forested areas. An AC vistadome coach has been added to the tiny train to facilitate viewing and makes for an interesting journey during which you may spot birds. (Daily departure from Waghai: 6 am and 2.30 pm. Only the first hour of the three-hour journey is through a forest, so you may want to go only until Unai. (Ordinary ticket to Unai: Rs 30; vistadome:Rs 470.)
STAY
There are very few decent accommodation options in Dang district.
Hotel Sahyog, located on the Vansda-Waghai road in Mahuvas village (10 min from the park entrance), is convenient with basic but clean air-conditioned rooms and an attached restaurant. Doubles from Rs 2,000.
About the contributor
Anita Rao-Kashi
Related Content
