The Guide: Purna Wildlife Sanctuary, Gujarat

A winding road in Gujarat’s Eastern Dang passes through the district capital Ahwa, and constantly crosses back and forth over the river Purna as it twists and turns in the gently undulating topography. Much of the district is thickly forested, and there’s dense cover on either side of the road, punctuated by an occasional hamlet or tiny village. At Mahal village, a sprawling forest office and guesthouse are the only signs of the protected area of Purna Wildlife Sanctuary (PWS) nearby.

PWS is relatively unknown outside its immediate area. Except for summer weekends, there are very few visitors during the rest of the year. The lack of interest may stem partly from the fact that there are no organised safaris. The upside is that those truly interested can almost always expect to have the whole place to themselves without the chance of encountering noisy hordes.

Leaving the main thoroughfare at Mahal and heading into the sanctuary, the last few sounds of civilisation fall away. The path leads past an eco-campsite with cottages along the Purna River. The forest hems in on both sides, a dense curtain of green. The sun is inching upwards, but the forest is shrouded in shadows. Except for the low hum of the vehicle, there is hardly any sound. An occasional rustle, a movement in the undergrowth or high up in the trees catches one’s attention, but the foliage is so thick that nothing is visible. Rather than continue in the vehicle, it makes more sense to head inside the sanctuary on foot. While most sanctuaries do not allow visitors to walk in the core areas, it is permitted here. Guides are mandatory, but there are very few around. They can be hired at the gate, mostly in peak season on weekends (March to June).

THE HABITAT

PWS is spread over nearly 161 sq km, spanning an undulating terrain of hillocks, valleys, and plateaus at the beginning of the Western Ghats. It is at a higher elevation than Vansda National Park, 20 km to the south. The sanctuary is drained by the Purna (from which it gets its name) and other smaller rivers and rivulets, including the Gira.

Unlike the rest of Gujarat, the area receives over 250 cm of rainfall, one of the high rainfall regions of the country. During the monsoons, several waterfalls and rapids come alive and add to the sanctuary’s allure.

The sanctuary is a dense, lush, tropical, moist deciduous forest with over 700 plant, tree, and bamboo species. Various kinds of bamboo grow in dense thickets, covering slopes and running up to the river’s edge. In other patches, lofty trees, some growing to over 30 metres, form a canopy through which very little light filters. The most predominant tree species is teak (Tectona grandis), but there is also an abundance of sadad/crocodile bark tree (Terminalia elliptica), timru (Diospyros melanoxylon), shisham/rosewood (Dalbergia sissoo/latifolia), sala/Indian frankincense (Boswellia serrata), kalam (Mitragyna parvifolia), palash/flame of the forest (Butea monosperma), haldu (Adina cordifolia), bahera (Terminalia bellirica), gular/cluster fig (Ficus racemosa) and others.

To start exploring this sanctuary, first head to the bamboo thickets behind the eco campsite. The main path branches off at various points, and narrow, muddy tracks snake off through the dense bamboo growth, climbing up and down hillocks and little valleys, skirting gurgling rivulets and streams. Local indigenous communities have access to these parts, and it is common to see traditional fishing traps (using woven bamboo baskets and a funnelling technique) across the waterbodies. Walking along the Purna (near Bandhpada village) lets you experience the towering trees of this forest.

WILDLIFE

The dense forest growth makes it difficult to spot animals. Animals that can occasionally be seen during the dry summer months include leopard, civet, porcupine, spotted deer, chousingha, barking deer, macaques, hyena, jungle cat, flying squirrels, several species of snakes, nearly 130 species of spiders including giant wood spiders and funnel-web spiders, and several types of butterflies such as the monarch, blue moon and psyche.

PWS is known predominantly for its astonishing birds; over 200 species have been recorded in and around the sanctuary. These include red spurfowl, emerald and spotted dove, plain prinias, common tailorbirds, greater and racket-tailed drongos, white-naped monarchs, Indian cuckoo shrike, yellow-throated sparrow, and black-rumped flameback woodpecker. Occasionally visitors spot the Indian scops owl. If lucky, it is also possible to see such rare species as the white-bellied woodpecker and the Malabar trogon. Where the forest abuts agricultural land is ideal for encountering the endangered forest owlet, a species thought to be extinct for 113 years and rediscovered in 1997.

SEASONS

Winter (end-November to end-February) is dry and cold. Morning temperatures drop below 10 degrees C while daytime temperatures go up to 26 degrees C. The park is lush green from the monsoons and is a sight to behold, but the thick greenery and cold weather are also hindrances to sighting animals.

Summer (early March to early June) is humid and very hot, with daytime temperatures sometimes touching 40 degrees C. This is the best time for animal sightings. February and March are also ideal for birdwatching, as several species of local trees (silk cotton, palash, mahua, and Indian coral) bloom and their bright flowers attract birds.

Monsoon (late June or early July to end-September) is heavy, with 250 cm of rain. Streams, rivulets, and waterfalls come alive and flow into the Purna. Occasionally, the sanctuary gets flooded (in 2022). 

SAFARIS

Open: October 16 to June 14. (Please check before visiting, as dates can change in case of heavy rains). The park is closed from October 15 to June 15.

Timings: 8 am to 6 pm

Safari: The park does not have safaris of its own but allows private vehicles (only four-wheelers). At the entry gate near Mahal, the forest department issues permits for three hours for Rs 200 onwards, depending on vehicle size. Guides can be hired from Rs 300 onwards (but there are very few guides). Soar Excursions (www.soarexcursions.com/) can custom design safaris based on individual interests, including vehicle, guide, and birdwatching sessions.  

GETTING THERE

The nearest airport is at Surat (130 km/3 hours away). From there, you need to hire a private vehicle to get to Dang (costs Rs 3,500-4,000 to reach Ahwa (district headquarters) or Waghai, two prominent towns in the district).

STAY

There are very few decent accommodation options in Dang district.

Hotel Sahyog on the Vansda-Waghai road in Mahuvas village is convenient (45 minutes from the sanctuary). It is basic but clean and has air-conditioned rooms and a restaurant. Doubles from Rs 2,000 without breakfast.

Mahal Campsite at the entrance to the sanctuary is convenient. Cottages have views of the Purna River. The campsite was closed in 2023 but is slated open again.

There are several options in and around Saputara, a popular hill station on the border with Maharashtra, about 80 km/2 hours south of the sanctuary.