Winged Wonders of Kadalundi-Vallikunnu Community Reserve

The Kadalundi-Vallikunnu Community Reserve is a picturesque ecological hotspot in Kerala. As India’s first riverfront community reserve and the state’s only community reserve, it is an ideal destination for nature enthusiasts and birdwatchers. Kadalundi was once only known for the tragic train accident of 2001, but today, it is famous for its community engagement in conserving migratory birds and other wetland creatures.

Established in 2007, the 1.5-sq-km reserve is bordered by the Arabian Sea and the Kadalundi River. The reserve boasts over 180 bird species, more than 50 species of fish, and other aquatic animals like turtles and otters. The wide range of habitats — mudflats, mangroves, estuaries, and riparian forests — harbour a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The Kadalundi River originates in Silent Valley and flows through Malappuram and Kozhikode districts of Kerala to reach the Arabian Sea; it is at this mouth of the river that the reserve is situated. Just before meeting the sea, the Kadalundi River divides into two channels encircling one or two small islands, which we can see during the boat ride through the reserve.

Boating, especially through the mangrove patches, is the best way to glimpse the biodiversity of Kadalundi. The stilt roots, pencil roots, hanging viviparous fruits, and birds perched amidst the leafy branches create a magical experience for all who visit this estuarine ecosystem — seasoned travellers, first-timers, or children. The boatmen of Kadalundi village are familiar with the river waters and its terrestrial flora and fauna. As we moved through the mangrove thickets, our boatman, Manoj Chetan, showed us eight different mangrove tree species. Red mangrove (Rhizophora mucronate; brandhan kandal), Indian mangrove (Avicennia officinalis; uppatti), star mangrove (Sonneratia alba; nakshatra kandal) and sea holly (Acanthus ilicifolius; chullikandal) are the dominant species here. Guides point out the different species, explaining the variations in their flower or leaf shapes, and show you schools of jumping fishes and the perching sites of kingfishers and white-bellied sea eagles.

Waterbirds such as terns, gulls, whimbrels, and plovers are the main attractions and icons of the reserve. Around one-third of the birds found here use the reserve as their wintering grounds. The migratory birds seen here include the bar-headed goose, great thick-knee, great knot, Eurasian oystercatcher, Eurasian whimbrel, black-winged stilt, Eurasian curlew, godwits, seagulls, sandpipers, and many species of diving and dabbling ducks. Many rare vagrants, such as flesh-footed shearwaters, lesser and greater flamingos, great knots, grey-headed lapwings, petrels and lesser frigatebirds, have been reported from here. The bird sanctuary supports several species that are threatened and endangered, according to the IUCN. The largest congregation of brown-headed gulls reported from Kadalundi is over 1,400 individuals. A much sought-after bird (by birdwatchers) is the resident blue-capped kingfisher, an icon of the reserve, which occurs in the wooded seashores and creeks of the coastline. Its strong, red beak, black head with white collar, and vibrant, blue-coloured body look stunning against the lush green of the mangroves. Six species of kingfishers of various sizes, colour combinations, and fishing tactics are seen here. Flocks of Brahminy kites, black kites, terns, marsh harriers, and crows soar over the mudflats and waters to scoop fishes and scavenge on bycatch on the banks. 

As we marvelled at a large seagull congregation on the mudflats, Manoj Chetan told us: “Sadly, it was not the wintering birds of Siberia and other faraway lands that brought Kadalundi to public attention. The rail bridge under which we will be boating in the reserve is infamous for a train derailment accident in 2001. Three carriages of the Mangalore Chennai Mail that were passing over the 140-year-old bridge fell into the water. Hundreds of people were injured, and many lost their lives. The rapid intervention by local people, including the coir and sand mining workers and fisherfolk, helped reduce the death toll.” This spirit of the local communities is the secret to the successful management of the reserve. The boatmen are residents, and most have excellent knowledge of the reserve’s biodiversity. Women from the village are appointed at ticket counters and the biodiversity exhibits on the riverbank. Fishermen and boatmen earn their livelihood through fishing and taking visitors on boat tours. The youth in the village are trained as nature and bird guides.

This reserve is a great example of a local community volunteering to conserve wildlife and its habitat in collaboration with the forest department. Since 2018, active efforts have been made to improve the ecotourism prospects of the reserve, supervised by the tourism and forest departments, and managed by the local management committee. The main stakeholders of the reserve are around 1,000 families from Vallikkunnu and Kadalundi gram panchayats and around 200 families from the two islets. Five Reserve Development Committees were constituted for participatory forest management initiatives involving local families and a forest department representative. The forest department shapes ecological management and conservation measures for the reserve. The committee also takes measures to improve the livelihoods of different stakeholders by conducting awareness camps, training for ecotourism guides, providing basic amenities for visitors, and medical camps. Regular scientific monitoring activities such as yearly bird surveys and nature camps are also conducted to improve the ecological understanding of the area.

The steady-slow (non-motorised) boating in Kadalundi Community Reserve is a tranquil experience. You float through the mangroves, watching hundreds of gulls, terns, and plovers flying and landing on the mudflats. Cruising under tunnels of mangrove canopies is just as magical. Locals engaged in fishing and manual bivalve collection give the journey a local flavour. Country boats and local homestays are available for detailed explorations of this wonderland.

Timings & Fees: 7.30 am to 6 pm with a nominal entry fee. Open throughout the year. Boating costs Rs 800 per trip for one hour and Rs 1,500 for two hours for 12 people in a boat.

Getting there: By train/air: Kadalundi is well connected by rail. Nearby railway stations are Feroke (7 km) and Kozhikode/Calicut (19 km). The nearest airport is Calicut International Airport (~29 km). Local buses and taxis are available. By road: The reserve is 19 km away from Kozhikode and 166 km from Kochi.

Best time to visit: Winter and early summer (November to March) are the best times to observe migrant birds.

Accommodation: A few homestays are available near the reserve, but Kozhikode city has more facilities and hotels.