My attention was focused on a narrow green boardwalk that stretched and wound its way through thick foliage. On either side, luxuriant trees pressed in, acting like a dense curtain hiding everything behind it, especially the elusive fishing cat, the keystone species of Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary (CWLS).
To get here I’d just travelled south out of Kakinada on NH 216 on the Andhra Pradesh coast, on a road that was alternately bumpy and smooth. It went over bridges on rivers, past paddy fields, scattered hamlets, and patches of wild greenery. After about ten kilometres, an arch announced Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary. From there another two kilometres along a narrow, potholed road, flanked by fields, got me to the entrance to the park, marked by another arch and a little fee counter.
Intermittent bursts of breeze relieved the slight mugginess in the air. The breeze also brought with it a distinctive smell — a mix of forest sap, slushy earth, and saltiness. I realised soon enough that this was the smell of Coringa, the smell of the mangroves.
Cover photo: Flowing nearly 1,500 km, the Godavari is the largest river in peninsular India; towards the end of its course it splits into four distributaries and flows through low hills and valleys, its banks thick with mangroves, before flowing into the Bay of Bengal. Cover photo: Srikanth Mannepuri
EXPLORE
After flowing for nearly 1,500 km, the river Godavari touches India’s eastern coast and splits into two major distributaries, the Gautami and Vasishta, each of which further splits into two. The Gautami empties into the Bay of Bengal near Kakinada. It forms a dense estuarine ecosystem, the Godavari mangroves, just before meeting the sea. The mangroves extend for an area of nearly 320 sq km, second only to the Sundarbans in India. Of this, about 235 sqkm is designated as protected and constitutes CWLS.
Within this protected area, the river splits again into three main creeks, each of which has its own network of smaller channels forming a complex mesh. There are several ways to explore and experience the sanctuary, but allow 2-3 days at least, since some of the creatures are elusive and spotting them requires repeated visits.
A small part of the sanctuary has been designated an “Ecotourism Spot”, and it is the main and sole entry into CWLS for tourists. It comprises a long and fairly wide walkway flanked by mangrove trees, leading up to the creek with a pier. Visitors can only walk around this designated area; no vehicles are allowed. Approximately halfway down the walkway, another path leads off from the left, crosses over a little stream, and runs parallel to the main walkway right up to the creek. On this secondary path boards highlight the creatures of CWLS.
There’s also a narrow boardwalk, to the right of the walkway, a few feet above ground that snakes its way for 2.3 km through the dense mangrove growth, providing a close up view of over 35 plant and tree species of the mangroves, 16 of which are considered true mangrove varieties. The boardwalk is also a good place to observe the forest floor as the tide runs out.
A four-storey-high watchtower offers panoramic views of the thick mangrove canopy, and further out, till the horizon. It’s a good way of getting an overview of the sanctuary and the area around.
However, the only way to explore the sanctuary in some depth is by boat, cruising along the network of canals and creeks. At the pier, boat safaris are available to explore the creeks. On a boat you have a much better chance of spotting wildlife, but this is predicated on tides and weather.
Finally, about 10 km south of the Ecotourism Spot on NH 216 is Coringa Mangrove World, a museum and biodiversity centre which has many details and explainers about mangroves and the local area (more details below).
WILDLIFE
Owing to its unique location, the movement of tides, and the constant intermingling of freshwater and seawater, the sanctuary supports an astonishing diversity of flora and fauna, including several endangered and vulnerable species. Of Coringa’s three main animal species, the fishing cat is the most elusive and hard to spot. Golden jackals and otters are comparatively easier to find. Your best chance of spotting a fishing cat is on a boat ride, preferably close to low tide. The sanctuary also has other animals such as mongoose, monkeys, and a plethora of reptiles such as cobras, spot-tailed pit vipers, cat snakes, and Russell’s vipers.
Birds
Coringa’s winged creatures are easier to spot than its animals. It has over 200 species of birds, some in large numbers. It is fairly common to spot egrets, herons, blue and pied kingfishers, whimbrels, shanks, brahminy kites, painted storks, and pelicans. A handful of flamingos have been observed on Hope Island around February-March but their arrival is uncertain.
Aquatic life
One of Coringa’s unique features is its forest floor. You’ll find creatures such as mudskippers, and yellow fiddler crabs. The latter two have a fascinating biorhythm that is tied to the tides. Hope Island, which is more of an 18-km-long sandbar is a short boat ride from the pier into Kakinada Bay. Olive Ridley turtles come to nest here from December onwards, though the best time to see them is around February-March.
Museum
Coringa Mangrove World is an interpretation centre and museum located about 10 km south of the Ecotourism Spot on NH216. It has a Biodiversity Centre with geographic models of the area, featuring mangroves at the centre. Explainers describe the main livelihoods in the area (fisheries, fertilisers, salt, port, commercial agriculture, oil and gas, and tourism). There isalso a large room full of specimens of the region’s wildlife and marine animals stored in jars.
SEASONS
CWLS is open throughout the year,but the best time to visit is between November and March. Time your visit based on your particular interests. For instance, migratory birds and olive Ridley turtles arrive at different times of the year.
Summer (March to July) is hot and humid,with temperatures soaring to 40 degrees C. At this time, the area is infested with swarms of aggressive mosquitoes.
February-March is the time when olive Ridley turtles nest on Hope and Sacremento islands and this is when you can see hatchlings.
In winter (December-January), temperatures range from the low to high 20s C, though it occasionally crosses 30 degrees. The weather is mostly comfortable with occasional cool breezes. From end-November to mid-February, the area is abuzz with a variety of migratory birds.
COSTS AND TIMINGS
Ecotourism spot: Rs 20 adults; Rs 10 children; Rs 50 still camera. Open 10 am to 5 pm; Tuesday closed.
Boats: Rs 90 per person (30 minutes) ordinary boat; Rs160 per person (10 minutes) on a speed boat; Rs 6,000 per person for a trip to the old lighthouse (approximately 2 hours). This is ideal for seeing mangrove wildlife and for birding.
Tip: Check ahead as boats can be cancelled due to rain or flood. Local fishermen can sometimes be hired for trips around the mangroves, especially outside the protected area.
Coringa Mangrove World entry: Free; open from 10 am to 5 pm; Sunday closed.
GETTING THERE
Coringa is about 20 km south of Kakinada on the east coast of Andhra Pradesh.
By air: The nearest airport is at Rajahmundry (70 km/1.5 hr; taxi to Coringa approximately Rs 2,000), connected with flights from Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, and Vishakhapatnam. Since Visakhapatnam has better connectivityto most of the large metros as well as a few international Southeast Asian destinations you can also access Coringa directly from this city (145 km/3 hours; taxi to Coringa approx. Rs 4,000).
By train: Kakinada is the nearest railhead, well connected to major cities in the region. From Kakinada, hire an auto (Rs 400 one-way) or taxi (approximately Rs 2,000 round trip) to visit the sanctuary.
STAY
Grand Kakinada by GRT Hotels is centrally located in Kakinada. It has spacious, comfortable rooms and a host of amenities including a fourth-floor swimming pool and spa. Sample some Andhra dishes from the small list on offer. Don’t miss a walk in the adjoining, sprawling Vivekananda Park. Doubles from Rs 5,000, including breakfast.
Royal Park combines comfort and hospitality for a relaxed stay. It has multiple dining options including a specialty restaurant next to the pool. Doubles from Rs 4,000, including breakfast.
Samudra Beach Resort, 70 km south of the sanctuary in Odalarevu, is the place for a truly secluded beach experience. The family-run resort has 10 huts at the water’s edge. (Doubles from Rs1,500, including breakfast).
The Andhra Pradesh Forest Department has a small guesthouse complex adjoining Coringa Mangrove World, comprising three cottages (for 2-3 people/Rs1,200) and a suite (for 4-5 people/Rs2,000), which are basic and functional. (Contact: 9491372329/7731016344).
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