Keep Calm and Carrion: The Great Vulture Gathering in Jorbeed, Rajasthan
Photo StoryPublished : Aug 24, 2020Updated : Sep 24, 2023
On the outskirts of Bikaner, an animal carcass dumping ground is now a “paradise of raptors”, particularly vultures, the stewards of meat waste
Text by: Sustain Team
Photos by: Dhritiman Mukherjee
On the outskirts of Bikaner, an animal carcass dumping ground is now a “paradise of raptors”, particularly vultures, the stewards of meat waste
Rajasthan is a beloved hotspot for birdwatchers. The western state has a variety of landscapes, from dry forests in Ranthambore to marshy wetlands in Bharatpur and sand dunes in the Desert National Park. Each attracts a diversity of bird life and visitors get the chance to see rare species. Unlike most of these birding favourites in Rajasthan, Jorbeed is a hotspot of a different kind. It isn’t characterised by serene vistas, soothing birdcall, and munificent tree canopies. In fact, Jorbeed (or Jor Beed or Jorbeer) isn’t a wildlife sanctuary at all, but a government-approved dumping ground for the carcasses of cows, camels, and other animals. The decomposing meat creates an overpowering stench and macabre views, but attracts a number of raptor species, including the critically endangered Indian vulture (Gyps indicus ).
Spread over an area of 20-25 sq km, Jorbeed attracts thousands of vultures and other raptors, besides crows, ravens, and dogs, write the authors of the book Important Bird and Biodiversity Areas of India (2016). They state that seven species of vultures have been recorded at Jorbeed, including the long-billed vulture (Gyps indicus ), white-rumped vulture (Gyps bengalensis ), Eurasian griffon (Gyps fulvus ), Himalayan griffon (Gyps himalayensis ), red-headed vulture (Aegypius calvus ), cinereous vulture (Aegypius monachus ), and Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus ).
Due to its popularity, the Rajasthan Forest Department has converted Jorbeed into a Conservation Reserve, which is open to birdwatchers keen on seeing and photographing these species. Jorbeed isn’t every birder’s cup of tea, but it can be richly rewarding. As Dr Rahmani advises, “Wear a mask to reduce the smell and enjoy the grand birds.”
Online birding forums call Jorbeed a “Paradise of Raptors”. The conservation reserve-cum-dumping ground is characterised by scant, thorny vegetation. According to the book Important Bird and Biodiversity Areas of India , the trees and shrubs that dominate the landscape are Prosopis cineraria (ghaf) , Salvadora oleoides (peelu), and Ziziphus nummularia (lotebush) . Vultures and eagles can be seen perched on the branches of these trees during the day surveying the spread of carrion below. The bird population increases in winter when migratory species join the gathering.
Among the visiting species at Jorbeed is the steppe eagle (Aquila nipalensis) that flies to India from northern China, Russia, and Mongolia in the winter months. These majestic raptors are identified by their “rich brown plumage, wide wings, and seven well-splayed ‘fingers’ at the wingtip,” according to the website eBird. Steppe eagles are skilled fliers and studies show that the birds can cover between 100 and 200 km per day during migration.
Jorbeed has extreme desert conditions, where temperatures range between 49 degrees in the summer to 0 degrees in the winter, when migratory species such as the Eurasian griffon or griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus) make an appearance. Members of the Gyps family are characterised by long, slender necks, perfect for digging deep inside carcasses. They also have patchy plumage: some parts of their body are heavily feathered, while other areas have bald skin. This helps vultures regulate their body temperature, says an article in the Journal of Thermal Biology, as “Postural changes can cause the proportion of bare skin areas to change from 32% to 7%, which can save up to 52% heat loss from the body”.
The meat buffet at Jorbeed attracts a plethora of insects too, which in turn draws birds such as the red-naped ibis (Pseudibis papillosa), while others such as the yellow-eyed pigeon (Columba eversmanni) gravitate towards the vegetation. According to Important Bird and Biodiversity Areas of India, hundreds of yellow-eyed pigeons are come here in the winter, making it “perhaps the largest known wintering ground of this species in India”.
The largest vulture species in Jorbeed is the cinereous vulture (Aegypius monachus), another visitor that travels to Rajasthan (and other parts of India) in winter. Like many species of scavengers, vultures have the reputation of being unhygienic, and are often portrayed as greedy and villainous in folk tales and popular culture. In reality, these birds play the crucial role of waste management in the ecosystem. By consuming carrion, they keep the nutrition cycle going, and minimise the spread of disease in the habitat.
To fulfil this role as clean-up crew, vultures have specialised digestive systems with “highly corrosive, bacteria-killing stomach acids”, says an article in National Geographic. This allows the birds to consume decaying flesh — full of bacteria that is harmful to humans — without falling sick themselves. In this way, the birds “neutralise pathogens, and may help limit the spread of bacteria and diseases such as anthrax and rabies”. This is an Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), a resident species of Rajasthan.
Unfortunately, their service as scavengers has cost these raptors dearly. In the last few decades of the 20th century, the vulture population in India fell by almost 90 per cent, largely due to a veterinary drug called diclofenac. This pain-killing medicine was widely administered to ailing cattle to ease their discomfort but causes renal failure in vultures when they consume the dumped carcasses. The Indian government banned the use of diclofenac in 2006, but enforcement has been difficult across the country.
Jorbeed also highlights the environmental issues facing cattle in the region. All the plastic visible in this image is from the stomachs of animals that were dumped here — indicative of the amount of non-biodegradable waste consumed by them. Decades after the carcasses were deposited, the meat and bones have been consumed by raptors, insects, and microbes, but the plastic lives on.
Conservation efforts are underway to improve the situation, at least for the scavengers in the region. The use of diclofenac is on the decline, but until it is eradicated, Dr Rahmani suggests that the carcasses be checked for the drug before dumping. Any carcass with diclofenac should be buried, so birds cannot consume the meat.
For now, the population of raptors in Jorbeed continues to flourish, and it is common to see hundreds of vultures and eagles gathered here throughout the year. Left to their own devices, these hulking stewards of waste quietly dispose of carrion, contain disease, and keep our ecosystem clean. Far from villainous, they are in fact, a vital part of our habitat, and integral to the health of humanity.
About the contributors
Sustain Team
We are a driven group of people from diverse backgrounds, bound by an abiding love for India’s natural world.
is one of India's most prolific wildlife and conservation photographers. His work has been featured in leading publications. He is also a RoundGlass Ambassador, and an RBS Earth Hero awardee.
