The Guide: Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary

Travel Published : May 10, 2024 Updated : Jun 19, 2024

There are plenty of birds and animals in Aralam, one of the lesser-known sanctuaries in northern Kerala, but the main attraction is undoubtedly its abundance of butterflies

In this hidden nook of the Western Ghats, there’s always drama in the air when the forest emerges from the sticky darkness of night. Large-flowered bay (Persea macrantha) and vellapine (Vateria indica) trees tower over the dirt road ahead. Curls of mist dissipate, their gossamer protective veil lifted by the sun as it gathers momentum on its stroll across the sky. The gurgle of the Cheenganni puzha (river) gently pierces the silence of the dawn, and its waters shimmer golden, catching the morning light.

Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary hides in plain sight in the southern Western Ghats in Kerala’s Kannur district. To arrive at its foot, one must drive on a hanging bridge above the Bavali River and coast through the Aralam Central State Farm, one of Kerala’s biggest producers of coconut palm saplings.

Kerala’s northernmost sanctuary, beyond which the forests breach into the borders of Karnataka, sprawls behind an unassuming gate under a wrought iron arch with green and yellow lettering. Inside the haven of luxurious flora and fauna, butterflies frolic, giant squirrels chatter, birds thrive, elephants enjoy mud baths, and predators appear infrequently.

Mud puddling is common among male butterflies, such as the (1) painted sawtooth and (2) common albatross (Appias albina). This is how they absorb amino acids and sodium from the soil to pass on to females during mating. Photos: Ajith U, CC BY-SA 4.0 (1), Vinayaraj, CC BY-SA 4.0 (2)

EXPLORE

Aralam is one of Kerala’s lesser-known sanctuaries, a 55-sq-km forested patch extending across the western slopes of the Western Ghats. Until the pandemic restricted trekking options within the sanctuary, the route to Meenmutty Waterfalls inside Aralam attracted hordes of hikers. The Katti Betta hike and the trekking route to Ambalappara, which offers overnight camping within the sanctuary, were also popular. Both these hiking routes provide panoramic views of the forests and the emerald waters of Meenmutty. However, as of January 2024, they were under maintenance by the Forest Department and not open to visitors. Until the routes reopen, only day trips to the sanctuary are possible, except for the specialised annual butterfly surveys in December, when enthusiasts can register and participate in a weeklong event.

The park harbours giant native trees, birds like Malabar grey and pied hornbills and bay owls, animals like Malabar giant squirrels, elephants, gaur, sambar, barking deer, slender lorises, langurs and the odd predator like the tiger. Few know that this biodiversity paradise exists behind the protective barbed wire fencing of Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary.

Aralam plays host to both (1) Sahyadri birdwing (Troides minos), India’s second-largest butterfly and (2) red pierrot (Talicada nyseus) among the smallest (this is a mating pair). Photos: Vinayaraj, CC BY-SA 4.0

BUTTERFLIES

Aralam’s butterfly species have pride of place in the sanctuary. The Western Ghats has around 334 recorded butterfly species, of which 250 are present here. Butterfly migration to Aralam starts just as the northeast monsoon sets into the peninsular southeast (October-December). They arrive in hoards and breed in the ghats with the onset of winter before setting out to the plains in April. They avoid extreme rain and summer heat, timing their migration from the plains to the ghats.

From the southern birdwing, considered the largest butterfly in South India, to the smallest ones, like the blue pansy and the common albatross, the sanctuary hosts multiple species of butterflies. On the day of our visit, we saw numerous species like the common albatross, southern birdwing, blue jay, Tamil yeoman, great orange tip, tawny rajah, cerulean blue line, and blue mormon.

SAFARIS

Inside the sanctuary, the navigable terrain extends up to 8 km. In 2024, the only way to explore it was through a jeep safari. Even if you arrive in Aralam by taxi, hiring a jeep is a better idea because the rough terrain is not motorable in a vehicle with low ground clearance. Jeeps can be rented outside the gate from 8 am until the last entry time of 2.30 pm.

Dragonflies like (1) Orthetrum glaucum are larger than their counterparts, damselflies like (2) Neurobasis chinensis; both inhabit wetlands. Photos: © 2016 Jee & Rani Nature Photography (License- CC BY-SA 4.0), CC BY-SA 4.0

The forest guard instructs us not to get out of the jeep unless the guide permits. There have been one too many incidents of man-animal conflict involving elephants in the neighbouring region. Sightings of elephant herds, while thrilling to witness in the wild, can take a quick turn for the worse.

Our jeep bounces on, and as we hit the first turn, our guide Rajini whispers, “jungle fowl”. A rusty orange jungle fowl skitters across, sighting our jeep at a distance. When we dip into a clearing, she whispers again, “bay owl”. The hard-to-spot owl is alert and takes off momentarily, but we catch a glimpse of its fluffy sandy-grey plumage.

As the sunlight gets toasty, the butterflies are out in full force. Around a flowering shrub, dozens of blue tigers flit about, feeding on its nectar. Rajini informs us that mud puddling, where butterflies congregate in hordes and feed on mud, is a common phenomenon. On that morning trip, we also see from a distance a garrulous Malabar pied hornbill pair feeding on a cluster fig tree (Ficus racemose).

*Agaricus*, a commonly cultivated genus of mushrooms worldwide, also comprises poisonous species in the wild. Photo: © 2016 Jee & Rani Nature Photography (License- CC BY-SA 4.0), CC BY-SA 4.0

As the morning progresses, Rajini drops us off at the Pothenplavu watchtower. The mid-afternoon sun beats down on the metal watchtower and we climb steep stairs to the viewing platform for a 360-degree view of the lush green forested peaks of the Western Ghats. The Brahmagiri peak peeks out at a distance. The droopy pink-green leaves of the Ceylon ironwood tree (Mesua ferrea) graze my arm as I shuffle about on the viewing platform because I am at canopy level. It feels like I’m communing with the trees intimately, providing a fitting end to a day trip to Aralam.

OTHER TRAVEL INFORMATION

Season: The sanctuary is open all year, but to enjoy favourable weather, visit between November and April. Some disruption to timings occurs in extreme summers in May and the monsoon (June to September); these months are best avoided.

Hours: Open 8 am to 4 pm.

Entry: Through Valayamchal.

Butterfly survey: Every year, the Malabar Natural History Society conducts a butterfly survey in Aralam. Check their website for various programmes (malabarnhs.in).

Fees: Entry Rs 15 per person; guide fees Rs 300 and vehicle entry costs Rs 75; professional camera fee is Rs 25.

Hiking and camping: Call the wildlife warden’s office for hikes and camping options (www.keralatourism.org/ecotourism/trekking-programs/aralam-trekking/16).

Endemic to the Western Ghats, the Malabar grey hornbill is a common sight both in plantations as well as dense forests. Photo: Manojiritty, CC BY-SA 4.0

GETTING THERE

By Air:

Though Kannur has an airport, Kozhikode (Calicut International Airport), 96 km away, is more easily accessible. The sanctuary is deep within the Western Ghats and can only be reached by taxi/car from either Kannur or Kozhikode.

By Train/Road:

Aralam is around 60 km from Kannur, which is well connected by trains and buses. Trains to Kannur and Thalassery, another town 55 km away, are available from across India.

Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary is bordered by the tributaries of the Aralam River, like the Cheenganni puzha seen here. Photo: Prathap Nair

STAY

With prior planning, basic dormitory accommodation can be booked within the sanctuary (Rs 160 adults; Rs 50 students). Rooms cost Rs 630 for single occupancy and Rs 945 for double occupancy. Foreign nationals pay USD 40 per day.

In Kannur, Anansa Boutique Hotel offers doubles from Rs 5,000 with views of the Arabian Sea and complimentary buffet breakfast (kannurclub.com/anansa-boutique-hotel/ / contact@kannurclub.com; 9846295550)

Photo sources: Sahyadri cruiser, painted sawtooth, common albatross, Sahyadri birdwing, red pierrot, dragonfly, damselfly, fungi, Malabar grey hornbill.

About the contributor

Prathap Nair

is a freelance writer who covers travel, environment, and culture. He’s based in Germany and on a sunny day can be found on endless walks with his dog in his city’s public green spaces.