As the former hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Rewa, the Bandhavgarh region has long been home to a wealth of wildlife. The story goes that by the early 1900s, the maharajas had hunted more than a 100 tigers here. Conservation efforts came in to play only in 1968, when Bandhavgarh was declared a national park. Today, this park, located in eastern Madhya Pradesh, is among India’s most popular wildlife reserves. Most popular of all is the regal Bengal tiger which roams its forested tracts, along with leopards, sloth bear, jackals, gaur, and a wealth of bird life.
Bandhavgarh is steeped in history and lore. Legend is that on his return from Lanka, Ram stopped in the area and gave his brother Laxman a fort. The fort sits high on a hill in the park’s Tala zone. A statue of a reclining Vishnu can be found along the same hill, next to a water source.
A young tiger crosses a stream to reach its mother. Cubs usually stay with their mother until they are 20-24 months old, after which they establish a territory of their own. Cover Photo: Dhritiman Mukherjee
Each of the park’s zones provides an enthralling forest experience. Dense sal forests are punctuated with mango, jamun, and amla trees. Look deep into the bamboo clumps for smaller species like civet, wild boar, and jungle cat. Anthills and termite mounds rise like delicate towers from the forest floor, offering sloth bears a premium meal. In this forest dominated by the striped cat, every corner thrives with life.
EXPLORE
At 1536 square kilometres, Bandhavgarh National Park remains a top choice for tiger safaris in India. Forests, riverside grasslands, bamboo groves, and low hills define the terrain, providing safe habitat for several large, small, winged, and terrestrial species.
Safaris in Bandhavgarh run almost full through the season. Tickets for the three core zones — Tala, Magadhi, Khitauli — are booked out much in advance. Of these, Tala is the most popular and busiest zone. Sightings of tiger are now increasingly common even in the buffer zones of Dhamokhar, Johila, and Panpatha. Wildlife moves freely among the different zones, and experienced guides and naturalists will interpret the workings of the forest in fascinating ways, no matter which area you choose to explore.
WILDLIFE
In this wilderness, habitats range from dense sal forests and bamboo groves to hilly terrain. Streams meander through low valleys, flanked by open grasslands. These diverse landscapes sustain a wealth of life. Watering holes thrive with birdlife: cormorants, red-wattled lapwings, grey Indian hornbills, babblers, orioles, and drongos all stop by for a drink. More than 250 species of birds inhabit this park. Sambar and chital are common sights, spending their days grazing on leaves and grass.
Wild boar, dhole, and sloth bears also inhabit this lush forest. With such a healthy population of prey, Bandhavgarh is known to have one of the highest concentration of tigers in India. The tiger is the apex predator here, but stealthy leopards and the formidable gaur are two other large species found in this thriving jungle. After a successful relocation exercise from Kanha in 2011, spotting the once-extinct gaur or Indian bison, is one of the highlights of a game drive in Bandhavgarh.
SEASONS
The park is open from October 16 to June 30. It remains closed for the monsoon from July 1 to October 15. Each season offers a uniquely different experience. Fresh from the monsoons, the jungle is lush and dense in October. The park isn’t as crowded, and visitors have the chance to experience the jungle intimately. Safaris are pleasant in the cooler months of November-January. This is the peak season with large crowds and cold temperatures. In the warmer months of March to May, animals frequently wander out in search of water, and sightings are highest in this season. The buffer zones are accessible even during the monsoon season.
SAFARI COSTS & TIMINGS
The park administration runs twice daily open-top jeep safaris from 6 am to 11 am and 3 pm to 6 pm. The park is closed on Wednesday afternoon.
Entry: Permits per jeep cost Rs 1,550 for the core zones and Rs 1,250 for the buffer zones. Each jeep seats six. Vehicle and guide charges are extra and payable at the gate, and shared by all occupants of the jeep. Carry government-approved photo ID.
Full vehicles or individual seats can be booked online at forest.mponline.gov.in
Many wildlife lodges will organise game drives into the park, for a fee.
GETTING THERE
By Air: The airport nearest to Bandhavgarh is Jabalpur (225 km/4 hr).
By Train: The closest railhead is at Umaria (35 km/40 min).
STAY
Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge: Located near the Tala gate, stay at the lodge’s comfortable, rustic cottages set within bamboo groves and jamun trees. Doubles inclusive of meals start at Rs 9,500.
King’s Lodge: Pugdundee Safaris has rustic cottages that are built in a traditional architectural style within acres of wilderness. Stays are comfortable, and experienced in-house naturalists elevate the wildlife holiday experience. Doubles inclusive of meals start at Rs 19,500.
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