The Guide: Kanger Valley National Park, Bastar

Some 30-odd eager schoolchildren jostled for space to get a closer look at the ground. Dhammshil Ganvir, director of Kanger Valley National Park, pointed to Indian sarsaparilla or anantamul (Hemidesmus indicus), a slender woody plant used as an Ayurvedic herb, that he had spotted. He was taking local village students on an educational trip through Kanger on the occasion of World Water Day. Kanger Valley National Park (also Kanger Ghati), in Chhattisgarh’s Bastar district, is a 200-sq-km scenic forest of sal and teak trees.

Ganvir tries to involve the local community in conservation measures. For instance, he has engaged local “myna mitras” (friends of mynas), who track mynas and prepare daily reports. He also has an ongoing conservation project to protect the mugger crocodile.

It was around 7 am. As the sun peeped through the dense foliage, we walked a trail along the crystal-clear Kanger river/nullah.

In the early morning, the clear waters of Kanger nullah looked beautiful. Birds chirped from the canopy, the water gurgled, and a cool breeze lulled the senses.

Amidst the crowd of 30-40 students and forest staff, a traditional healer from the nearby Adivasi village of Manjhipal stood out. He was there to search to collect important medicinal herbs which he used to treat various ailments.

After a fair amount of walking on a path littered with sal leaves, the Kanger nullah came into view again, but this time it was close. It looked green with the forest reflected in it. Ganvir and Ravi Naidu, who is doing phenomenal work in conserving Bastar’s wildlife, stopped at the nullah’s edge. The student listened with rapt attention as the two men described the significance of the waterbody, a critical habitat for muggers.

Explore

The area has long been known for conflict and insurgency, and perhaps this is why potential tourists stay away. But it is an adventure lovers’ paradise, thanks to its mysterious deep limestone caves, the most famous one being Kotumsar. There are more than 10-12 caves inside the park, though not all are open to visitors. Apart from Kotumsar, one can explore the Dandak and the Kailash caves with their stalactites and stalagmites.

Another major attraction is the mighty Tirathgarh waterfall, one of the highest in Bastar. Indeed, Bastar is well-known as the land of waterfalls and dense jungles.

Kanger is different from parks like Panna or Barnawapara. It is hilly and densely forested, with many gnarled and twisted trees, giving the impression of an ancient land mass. Unlike other national parks and sanctuaries where wildlife is easily spotted, it is difficult to see animals in Kanger. Visitors to this park usually enjoy the forest landscapes and caves. 

Wildlife

Kanger Valley is famous for the common hill myna (Bastar myna), endemic to the region, but its population is declining. It is Chhattisgarh’s state bird, protected under Schedule 1 of the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972. I talked to three residents (myna mitras) from nearby Kutumsar village, who assist the forest department in conserving the bird. Their survival depends on the Kanger nullah, where they find cool shade and adequate water.

There are no tigers in Kanger Valley, but if lucky, you may see leopards and sloth bears. The Kanger nullah is an important habitat for the mugger crocodile, and its sandy banks are ideal for nesting. The forest department is making attempts to secure this habitat from hunters and poachers so that the reptile population stabilises. 

A day later, I accompanied Naidu and two locals for their crocodile survey work. It was a hot, tiring walk, and the team took short breaks. It was slippery in places as we went through dense bamboo thickets. The nullah runs for about 15 km to join the Kolab and Sabari rivers of Bastar, and finally, they meet the Godavari.

As we trudged along, Naidu stopped to show us a few deep pools where crocodiles come and feed from the abundant supply of fish. Overfishing and hunting pose grave threats to the crocodiles in this park. Parad, the annual hunting festival, is a major threat to the wildlife of the Kanger Valley.

Seasons

The best time to visit Kanger Valley is early summer (February-March) or the pleasant winter (November to January). April and May are extremely hot. The park remains closed in the monsoon (July to September).

Safari

Timings: Tourists can enjoy 3-4-hour Gypsy safaris in the morning (6 to 11 am) and afternoon (3 to 6 pm). To create employment opportunities among tribal communities, the forest department has assisted them with loans to buy safari vehicles so that they can take tourists on trips through the forest. Book safaris at the main gate. 

Cost: Safaris start from Kotumsar gate and cost Rs 1,500 for six people. For solo trips, charges are Rs 1,100 for a vehicle, Rs 25 as entry fee, and Rs 150 for a guide. All guides are from nearby villages.

Getting there

By Air: The nearest airport is in Jagdalpur, Bastar’s district headquarters. There are daily one-hour-long Air India flights from Raipur. The park is 27 km/one hour from Jagdalpur, and cabs from the airport cost about Rs 2,000. By road, Kanger is 280 km/5-6 hours from Raipur.

Sustainable tourism: Kanger has minimal tourist infrastructure and is relatively unexplored and off the beaten track. Travellers can book a trip to Kanger through Unexplored Bastar (www.unexploredbastar.com), a travel startup founded by Jeet Singh Arya, to promote the beauty of Bastar in an eco-friendly and sustainable way, involving local communities.

Stay

A few eco homestays have come up in villages like Manjhipal, which offer tourists a taste of rural settings and authentic tribal cuisine. Taste dishes like chapda or red ant chutney, dry bamboo shoot and chicken cooked in a leaf bowl with light spices. One can also enjoy local drinks like salfi or mahua liquor.