Seeing Small: The Micro Life of Mizoram’s Dampa Tiger Reserve

Photo Story Published : Feb 17, 2023 Updated : Sep 30, 2023
Known for its elusive cats and diverse birdlife, panning down to the forest floor in Dampa reveals little creatures doing big work that helps maintain the balance of a healthy ecosystem
Seeing Small: The Micro Life of Mizoram’s Dampa Tiger Reserve Seeing Small: The Micro Life of Mizoram’s Dampa Tiger Reserve
Known for its elusive cats and diverse birdlife, panning down to the forest floor in Dampa reveals little creatures doing big work that helps maintain the balance of a healthy ecosystem

While walking through a forest, especially one as lush as Mizoram’s Dampa Tiger Reserve, it is easy to look up and lose yourself in its upper layers. It seems like that’s where all the action is. The heroes of these habitats seem to be these towering trees, the results of time in a theatre featuring seeds, soil, and a succession of seasons, dramatised by the time-lapse sequences in many natural history films. But like many other wet evergreen forests in this region, Dampa is like a bustling condominium, humming with life from the ground up — from the forest floor, through the undergrowth, the middle understorey, the upper canopy, all the way to the highest emergent layers.

A wealth of natural history action often goes unnoticed in the undergrowth and the forest floor, where small creatures and ecosystem engineers are busy at work. It is often difficult to imagine what beneficial relations between our species and others might be, but the phrase “seeing small” comes to mind. In a healthy ecosystem, complex relationships play out in the undergrowth and the quieter, often overlooked shadows of the forest floor. On my walks through Dampa, I chanced upon little creatures doing big work, vignettes of the intricate associations that keep these ecosystems running.

Our team consisting of wildlife photographer Dhritiman Mukherjee, naturalist Omkar Dharwadkar, filmmaker Tukai Biswas and myself, were in Dampa to document biodiversity in these forests. Located close to the Bangladesh border in the Lushnai hill ranges of Mizoram. The natural vegetation of the Dampa Tiger Reserve ranges from tropical evergreen to semi-evergreen forest. Over the years, as a result of human-induced factors, the vegetation has changed to include larger tracts of bamboo and scrub forest. Research suggests that the diverse vegetation of regenerating bamboo forests that occur as a consequence of jhum, the shifting agriculture practised by communities in the region, is better for wildlife than the expanding monoculture plantations of teak and oil palm in the buffer areas.

Possibly one of the last remaining low-to-mid-elevation natural forests in western Mizoram, Dampa is famously home to primates, mammals, and avian life. Camera trapping undertaken by the forest department has revealed at least 30 species of mammals, including clouded leopard, marbled cat, Asiatic golden cat, leopard cat, and sun bear. Another 2021 study by researchers from the Wildlife Institute of India and Mizoram University recorded 33 species of reptiles — about 27 per cent of the total reptilian diversity recorded from Mizoram. According to experts, the reserve teems with biodiversity. Forests like Dampa bring to my mind jungle condominiums where creatures live in different storeys of the forest, interacting with other communities inhabiting other levels. Much of nature’s drama and a diversity of movement can be spotted on tree barks, and fallen fruits and leaves on the moist forest floor. Fascinating creatures can be seen on the undersides of leaves, and after a heavy shower, in transient rain pools.

At the Teirei forest lodge, we spot Asian weaver ants (Oecophylla smaragdina) on the trees. A discerning observation of their movements unwraps stories of interrelationships with other creatures they share space with. These arboreal ants build nests high up in the canopies, housing up to half a million ants, often trooping down lianas or tree trunks in search of food. We also noticed an army of worker ants tackling a beetle (above). Perhaps an indication that it wouldn’t rain that evening. Ants seem to sense imminent rain before the clouds darken, and their movements change noticeably. Often, before a shower, one can see lines of worker ants ignoring dead insects and, with singular purpose, hurriedly carrying young larvae to higher ground. Research suggests that Asian weavers have two kinds of workers — major and minor. Majors are orange-red and over 10 mm long, with long legs and large mandibles (see above). Weaver ants are outstanding predators and highly territorial — I have approached a weaver ant nest and been on the receiving end of a quarterback-like defence line-up of hundreds of ants, abdomens raised and mandibles agape. Despite housing and feeding an entire colony of ants, host trees benefit significantly from the protection offered by Asian weaver ants against a variety of herbivorous insects.
Then there was the large but elusive northern jungle queen (Stichophthalma camadeva) (1) found in the Arakan hills that continue into Myanmar, and in Sikkim, Manipur, Nagaland, and Assam in India. We are lucky to have this brush-footed butterfly, as large as a small bird, accompany us for a short while as we explore the forest on foot; it glides gracefully while we make our way through a stand of bamboo. Another constant presence in these forests is the cicadas, one of India’s most under-studied insects. As we walk, the forest reverberates with their orchestra. Heard more often than seen, the local monikers for these fascinating songsters are often apt, particularly the “mai jing jing” cicadas (Platylomia vibrans) named after the repetitive notes in their call (2). 
Some creatures do not announce their presence with sound. We came across the caterpillar of a fruit-piercing moth, poised like a sculpture on a young plant, set dramatically against layers of vegetation. In the background, tall tropical trees are interspersed with groves of Melocanna baccifera, a common species of bamboo in the region, locally called mautak. Further along on the forest floor, I spot a few winged helicopter-like seeds that reveal the identity of one of the towering tropical giants around me. These were the fruit of Dipterocarpus trees.

Unlike other forests, I notice that Dampa’s damp forest floor does not crackle and crunch underfoot. Moisture shapes much of the landscape, especially in the evergreen forest patches. Moss-edged branches and moist fallen leaves, in varying stages of returning to the earth, move to reveal signs of beetles, small frogs, huntsmen spiders and leeches. This underfoot world starts coming alive at dusk and is especially active during the night.

(1) Smith’s litter frogs (Leptobrachium smithi) and (2) green cascade frogs (Odorrana chloronota) hop on the jungle track, and a tarantula (3) slowly emerges from its lair. But this was just a taster. A 2021 study conducted by the Wildlife Institute of India and Mizoram University in March and September (pre- and post-monsoon) listed 33 species of lizards and snakes, some of which were new records for the habitat. In terms of reptilian diversity as well, the species richness is remarkable, at 54 species.

Near the waterfalls and along the road, mud-puddling butterflies put on a dancing colour-fest — fluffy tits, common hedge blues, spotted blue crows, and grass yellows. Nature is cinema at its finest, zoom in on one character, and myriad stories unfold.

On a more sombre note, I think of the roadkill we had spotted on our way — forest rat, common krait, spotted blue crow (above). Dampa reminds me that wildlife is everywhere, not just within the boundaries humans demarcate for them. Yet, we seem to have specific ideas of where wildlife and nature should and should not be. As I think of life in the undergrowth, I realise that “seeing small” can open up a new world. Perhaps a step towards living with the rest of nature starts with marvelling at little creatures a little more. 


About the contributors

Divya Candade

Divya Candade

is a social anthropologist who works in the area of communication for sustainable development. She loves nature and slow travel, and is most content in the wilderness.
View Profile
Dhritiman Mukherjee

Dhritiman Mukherjee

is one of India's most prolific wildlife and conservation photographers. His work has been featured in leading publications. He is also a RoundGlass Ambassador, and an RBS Earth Hero awardee.
View Profile

Discussions