The Guide: Sultanpur National Park

Habitat Published : Jul 07, 2022 Updated : Sep 29, 2023

A tiny park, a little lake, and the unexpected promise of over 320 species of birds, make this wetland area close to Gurgaon a birder’s haven

The scene is reminiscent of a Jurassic Park movie — painted storks flap slowly overhead, circling downwards to land, pterodactyl-like, on an acacia tree, where their large, ungainly offspring shriek for attention, heads bobbing as they solicit food. There is something primeval and awe-inspiring about watching these coloured birds crisscross above you while walking in Sultanpur National Park.

Though small, at just 1.42-sq-km, Sultanpur is not only a national park and wildlife sanctuary but also, since 2021, a Ramsar site. The park is centred around a jheel (lake), which is surrounded by a 4-km-long circular walking trail. There are four machans or watchtowers along the way which give unimpeded views of the lake and birds in the distance.

Much like Keoladeo National Park in Bharatpur, Sultanpur is an “Important Bird Area”. It first received protection on the instruction of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. The lake was accorded sanctuary status in 1971 and was declared a national park in 1991.

Sultanpur National Park is one of Haryana’s more famous protected areas. Only metres from a national highway, the park is home to a diverse array of birds and mammals. Photo: Anirban Mukherjee / 500px/Getty Images
Cover: Around 15 migratory and resident raptor species can be spotted at Sultanpur National Park. These include the imperial eagle, booted eagle, marsh harrier, and red-necked falcon (seen here) and peregrine falcon. Cover photo: Gautam Krishna / 500px/Getty Images

Sultanpur is less than an hour from Gurgaon/Gurugram in Haryana and so close to the highway that you can hear the traffic even in the national park’s core. The park’s little lake is an ecologically important sanctuary to tens of thousands of birds of over 320 species, many of which are waterfowl that winter in the park. This park is an important breeding colony for over 50 pairs of painted storks. The storks nest on acacia trees which jut out from artificial islands in the lake, the boughs heavy with nests and leggy offspring.

EXPLORE

On entering the park, follow a 4-km circuitous route that encircles the lake and passes through patches of riparian vegetation, marsh, and semi-arid scrub. Climb the watchtowers along the way to watch storks fly past at eye level. Turn away from the lake and you’ll see agricultural fields stretch away from the park’s boundaries. This mosaic of landscapes contributes to the diversity of bird species in and around the park: grassland birds like wheateaters and larks; raptors like the imperial eagle and Eurasian marsh harrier; and waterbirds like egrets, ducks, greater flamingos, sandpipers, lapwings, jacanas, swamphens, and even the occasional sarus crane.

Nilgai, the largest antelope species in Asia, is endemic to the Indian subcontinent. Adult males (left) are an eponymous blue-grey colour, while females (right) are tan. Photos: Bhavya Iyer

Walking along the trail, we encounter numerous stray cattle, and a large male nilgai that ambles past the herd of cattle, splashing into the water to feed on floating vegetation. We gingerly edge around a large bull to watch the nilgai for a while before he tires of our gaze and sloshes through the lake towards one of the islands, where a female nilgai awaits him. A Eurasian coot and some common moorhens are startled by the ruminant and paddle out of his path.

Nature-starved and stuck in the city through the pandemic, Sultanpur and its abundance of bird activity is a blessing to us. Mixed flocks of gadwalls, coots, northern pintails, northern shovelers, and spot-billed ducks float slowly past. Watch them from the large, camouflaged hide on the edge of the lake — an ideal spot to sit undetected as you observe wildlife. Visitors are few on weekday mornings and if you sit quietly the birds come quite close. Every time an adult painted stork returns to its nest, all the chicks raise a racket, drowning out any other sounds, including traffic. An imperial eagle perches regally atop one of the acacias, and the ducks nervously gather closer to one another. A black drongo balances on the rump of a tan female nilgai. Avocets pick elegantly through the water, and a nesting little grebe wriggles as she settles into her nest. This tiny national park is a world all of its own.

Sultanpur is known for a diversity of waterbirds, several of them endangered species. It is a breeding ground for painted storks (top right), which can be observed in large numbers with their dull-coloured, ungainly offspring (top left; juveniles in trees). Large flocks of common coots (top left, swimming) can also be observed on the water. Jewel-toned grey-headed swamphens and grey herons (above left) appear in shallow water while sarus cranes (above right) may be spotted on occasion. Photos: Bhavya Iyer (top, above left), AbhishekMittal/Shutterstock (above right)

WILDLIFE

The park is famous for birds, especially migratory waterfowl like the bar-headed goose (Anser indicus), greylag goose (Anser anser), common teal (Anas crecca), and northern shoveler (Spatula clypeata). There are significant breeding colonies of painted storks (Mycteria leucocephala), oriental darters (Anhinga melanogaster), and black-headed ibis (Threskiornis melanocephala). Mammals include nilgai (Boselaphus tragocamelus), golden jackal (Canis aureus), and jungle cat (Felis chaus).

While Sultanpur is known for its waterbirds, the grassland and forest-dwelling bird species are not to be missed. There are passerines like the orange-headed thrush, coppersmith barbet, strikingly patterned scaly-breasted munia (top right) and the colourful bluethroat (top left), and several raptor species. Owls like the Indian scops-owl, brown hawk-owl and spotted owlet (above) can be trickier to spot. Photos: Nagarjun, CC BY 2.0 (top left, above), Ashok Bisht / 500px/Getty Images (top right)

TIPS

Try to pick a clear day for the best views.
There is an “Interpretation Centre” near the entrance with models and displays in Hindi and English.
Wear good walking shoes and be prepared to spend between 2-4 hours on foot.

SEASONS

While October to March is a good time to visit Sultanpur, the park is best visited in peak winter (Dec to Feb) when migratory birds like bar-headed geese, greylag geese, and common teal have arrived. The park is closed to visitors from June to end-September.

GETTING THERE

By air: Nearest airport is in Delhi, about 35 km away.

By train: Nearest railhead is Gurgaon Railway Station.

By road: Gurgaon/Gurugram is just 14 km/35-60 minutes away (depending on traffic). Cabs and state-run buses are available to Sultanpur.

Sultanpur National Park encompasses wetland, grassland, and open scrub forests amidst a mosaic of agricultural fields. Artificial islands dot the lake, acting as a heronry for painted storks. Photo: Bhavya Iyer

TIMINGS & COST

Timings: 7 am to 4.30 pm (closed on Tuesday)

Entry fee: Rs 5 per person.

Parking: Rs 10 per vehicle.

DSLR Camera fee: Rs 50 each.

Guide and binoculars: You can rent binoculars from the front desk and hire a guide for Rs 500/hour.

STAY

The closest accommodation options are in Gurgaon, 14 km away. Food is not allowed inside the park and there are no eateries nearby, so pack a picnic and eat in the gardens by the gate, or in the city.

Photo source (bluethroat), Photo source (spotted owlet)

About the contributor

Bhavya Iyer

has itchy feet that take her in search of wild landscapes, good food, and dark coffee. An alumnus of the Wildlife Institute of India, she has an interest in carnivore ecology and environmental policy.